An East African Journey: Inside Anne Marie Brown’s 11-Day Adventure Through Rwanda and Kenya

In January, Alpenglow Travel founder Anne Marie Brown and her husband, Matt, set off on an extraordinary journey through Rwanda and Kenya—an 11-day exploration of East Africa that blended luxury lodges, profound wildlife encounters, and landscapes that feel almost mythic in scale. From misty rainforests and volcanic foothills to sweeping savannahs beneath Mount Kilimanjaro, this itinerary reflects the kind of deeply immersive, conservation-minded travel that Anne Marie lives for and truly enjoys curating for her clients. 

This was not a rushed safari or a checklist of highlights. It was a thoughtfully paced experience—one that allowed space for stillness, wonder, and meaningful connection with place.

Kigali, Rwanda: A Gentle Introduction

Hemingways Retreat Kigali

Anne Marie and Matt’s  journey began in Kigali, Rwanda’s vibrant capital. Tucked into the leafy Kiyovu neighborhood, Hemingways Retreat Kigali offers a calm, restorative entry point to the country. As Rwanda’s first eco-conscious luxury boutique hotel, Hemingways Kigali hosts 20 thoughtfully designed rooms that blend handcrafted Rwandan elements with contemporary comfort.

It’s an ideal base for acclimating after international travel—quiet, refined, and rooted in community and sustainability—while offering easy access to Kigali’s cultural landmarks, markets, and memorials.

Into the Rainforest: Nyungwe National Park

One&Only Nyungwe House

From Kigali, the couple traveled southwest to the Nyungwe rainforest, one of Africa’s oldest and most biodiverse ecosystems. Set within a working tea plantation at the forest’s edge, One&Only Nyungwe House feels suspended between cultivated elegance and untamed wilderness.

Surrounded by rolling green hills and dense jungle canopy, the lodge invites guests to slow down and tune into nature. While farm-to-table dining, nature-inspired wellness rituals, and immersive experiences define the stay, it’s the rainforest itself that steals the show. The first day there brought a remarkable walk across the Nyungwe Canopy Walkway, a thrilling suspension bridge high above the treetops.

The next adventure began well before sunrise, with an early-morning chimpanzee trek into the forest alongside expert guides. Nyungwe is home to 13 species of primates, including endangered and nocturnal species, as well as waterfalls, bamboo thickets, and Afromontane forest that feels almost otherworldly. Encountering chimpanzees in their natural habitat, from hearing their calls echo through the jungle to watching their social dynamics unfold, is one of the most powerful wildlife experiences Rwanda has to offer.

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A Once-in-a-Lifetime Encounter: Volcanoes National Park

One&Only Gorilla’s Nest

Next, Anne Marie and Matt traveled north to the foothills of the Virunga Volcanoes, where mist clings to the forest and anticipation hangs in the air. One&Only Gorilla’s Nest is nestled deep within eucalyptus trees near Volcanoes National Park, offering an elegant yet immersive base for one of the world’s most profound wildlife encounters: mountain gorilla trekking.

Treehouse-style accommodations blur the line between indoors and out, with sweeping views of rainforest and volcanic slopes. The atmosphere is hushed and reverent, befitting what awaits.

After a detailed briefing from park rangers, the duo embarked on an early-morning, rigorous, 6-hour trek through dense forest to find the local Isimbi mountain gorilla family. The experience of coming face-to-face with mountain gorillas—observing their expressions, movements, and family bonds—is life-changing. It’s intimate, humbling, and deeply emotional, a reminder of both nature’s fragility and its resilience.

Following the trek, the afternoon unfolded slowly, with time to reflect, rest, and absorb the magnitude of the experience.

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Crossing Into Kenya: Nairobi

Hemingways Nairobi

From Rwanda, the journey continued into Kenya, beginning with an overnight stay at Hemingways Nairobi. Set against the backdrop of the Ngong Hills, this plantation-style boutique hotel offers spacious suites, natural light, and an elegant sense of calm just outside the city. With expansive balconies and views that stretch toward the hills, Hemingways Nairobi provides a refined transition between urban life and the wild landscapes still to come.

The Chyulu Hills: Where Savanna Meets Volcano

ol Donyo Lodge

A short flight from Wilson Airport delivered Anne Marie and Matt into the heart of the Chyulu Hills, a dramatic region of rolling green slopes, ancient lava flows, and endless savannah stretching toward Mount Kilimanjaro. Set on the private Mbirikani Group Ranch, ol Donyo Lodge is as much about place and people as it is about wildlife.

Carved from volcanic rock and designed in partnership with the local Maasai community, the lodge feels timeless and deeply rooted. Each suite offers total privacy, its own plunge pool, and a signature rooftop star bed, where guests can fall asleep beneath an uninterrupted African sky.

The couple spent two days venturing from the lodge on safari. Game viewing here is varied and intimate, with opportunities to spot elephants, giraffes, plains game, and predators. The landscape itself is a highlight, shifting from misty forest to open grassland, with cinematic views that have inspired films like Out of Africa. They also took a helicopter ride over the Pride Rock from The Lion King.

The Greater Maasai Mara: Safari at Its Most Exclusive

Mara Nyika Camp, Naboisho Conservancy

The final three days unfolded in the Naboisho Conservancy, part of the greater Maasai Mara ecosystem and one of Kenya’s most successful community-led conservation models. Mara Nyika Camp, an intimate Great Plains Conservation property, is set beneath umbrella thorn trees in a quiet valley, with just a handful of spacious canvas suites.

Here, privacy and space reign. Guests explore over 20,000 hectares of protected wilderness, with day and night game drives that reveal the full rhythm of the bush. Big cats, vast herds, and, season permitting, the drama of the Great Migration define the experience, all without the crowds of the main reserve.

Beyond wildlife, Naboisho represents a powerful example of conservation done right. Each stay directly supports hundreds of Maasai families, ensuring that tourism benefits both the land and the people who call it home.

A Journey That Stays With You

Anne Marie’s Rwanda and Kenya journey was more than a safari—it was a masterclass in intentional travel. Thoughtfully chosen lodges, expert guides, meaningful wildlife encounters, and a strong conservation ethos came together to create an experience that was both luxurious and deeply moving.

These are the kinds of journeys Alpenglow Travel specializes in: trips that don’t just show you the world, but change how you see it.

Anne Marie is a safari expert, and has traveled personally to Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, South Africa, Rwanda, Kenya, and Zimbabwe. 

If Africa is calling, we’d be honored to design a journey just as extraordinary, once crafted with care, insight, and a sense of wonder at every turn. Reach out to annemarie@alpenglowtravel.com to start planning a trip of a lifetime.