Botswana & Victoria Falls

The Okavango and the Falls

Botswana's Okavango Delta doesn't drain to the sea. It disappears into the Kalahari — a vast inland delta of shifting channels, lily-covered lagoons, and palm-fringed islands that supports one of the densest concentrations of wildlife on the continent. The nine-night Alpenglow itinerary takes you deep into it across two distinct camps, then finishes at the Zambezi River in Zambia, where Victoria Falls — Mosi-oa-Tunya, the Smoke that Thunders — ends the trip with the kind of spectacle that tends to recalibrate the scale of everything else.

&Beyond Xaranna Okavango Delta Camp

Access to Xaranna is by air from Maun to the camp's private airstrip, followed by a boat transfer across the channels to the island. That arrival — a wooden jetty, the staff singing and clapping against a backdrop of bright green delta grass — sets the register for everything that follows.

The camp holds just nine en-suite safari tents on its own island within an exclusive 90,500-hectare concession. Canvas and bleached timber, four-poster beds, an indoor bathtub, outdoor shower, private plunge pool, and a sala overlooking the channel. The colour palette — lily pink, olive green, soft khaki — mirrors the Delta's water lilies directly outside. There is no other &Beyond camp nearby; the concession is yours.

Activities at Xaranna rotate around the Delta's water levels, which rise and fall annually. Morning game drives in open 4x4s operate year-round and cover exceptional ground — elephant and buffalo herds move through in large numbers, African wild dog and leopard are regularly sighted, and the reserve holds 450 bird species including Pel's Fishing Owl. When the Delta is at its fullest, mokoro excursions take over: a poler navigates a dugout canoe silently through the reed-lined channels, bringing guests within metres of red lechwe, hippo, and crocodile at water level. Motorised eco-boat cruises cover more ground and work well for photography. Walking safaris operate daily, led by armed guides who read the bush at ground level.

Dinner rotates between the open-sided dining room, a candlelit boma under the stars, and bush picnics arranged on request out in the concession.

&Beyond Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge

A charter flight transfers you from Xaranna's airstrip south to Chitabe, where Sandibe occupies a private concession of 22,500 hectares bordering the Moremi Game Reserve. The two camps share the same operator but present entirely different ecosystems: where Xaranna is water, Sandibe is forest — golden-grassed floodplains, ancient fig trees, and permanent waterways that keep the game-viewing areas accessible even when the Delta is at its highest.

The lodge itself is one of the most architecturally distinctive in Africa. The main structure — a curl and sweep of shingled wood rising from the forest floor — was designed to resemble a pangolin at rest, its roof scales catching the light through the palm canopy. The 12 suites are raised on stilts to mimic golden weaver bird nests, each with a private deck, plunge pool, outdoor shower, and fireplace for winter evenings. Interiors celebrate Botswana craftsmanship: copper-clad mekoro, hand-woven basketware, sculpted wooden tables.

Game drives run morning and evening into the night, when leopard and serval become more active. The concession holds lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, cheetah, African wild dog, and hippo, with some of the best predator viewing in the Delta. Guided bush walks operate daily. Sandibe's interactive kitchen — where guests can build their own pizza or join the chef for a cooking session — is one of the more enjoyable hour-fillers between drives. Scenic helicopter flights over the Delta can be arranged at additional cost and are worth it for the aerial perspective on how the waterways branch and recede across the landscape.

Royal Livingstone Hotel by Anantara

A charter flight from Chitabe airstrip to Livingstone Airport in Zambia, followed by a 25-minute transfer, delivers you to the Royal Livingstone on the banks of the Zambezi in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. The shift from bush camp to colonial hotel is total. Zebras graze the hotel's lawns in the morning. Giraffes occasionally block the path between the bar and the rooms after dark. The falls are a five-minute walk through the national park, and hotel guests have complimentary, unlimited access from 6 AM to 6 PM.

The hotel's 173 rooms are arranged across 17 colonial-style buildings, all facing the Zambezi. Every room has a private veranda with river views. The Old Drift Restaurant serves European and Zambian dishes — Zambezi bream, roasted whole with salt and pepper, is the one to order. For one evening, the Royal Livingstone Express — a restored 1930s steam locomotive — runs a six-course dinner across the Victoria Falls Bridge as the falls pass below the windows.

Victoria Falls itself is best experienced at first light, before the tourist coaches arrive from Zimbabwe. The spray that rises above the gorge can be seen from 50 kilometres away on a clear morning; standing on the lip of the 1,708-metre wide curtain, with 500 million litres of water per minute dropping 108 metres into the Batoka Gorge below, is not something that requires enhancement. The Anantara Spa offers treatments in outdoor gazebos on the riverbank for those who prefer to decompress after the Falls rather than before.

Frequently Asked Questions

When is the best time to visit the Okavango Delta?

May through October is the dry season and the peak period for game viewing — vegetation is lower, wildlife concentrates around water sources, and cooler temperatures make early morning game drives comfortable. May also coincides with the annual Okavango flood, when the Delta fills from Angola's rains and mokoro and boat activities are at their best. This itinerary runs in May, which sits at the intersection of excellent game viewing and peak water activity.

What is a mokoro excursion?

A mokoro is a traditional dugout canoe, typically made from a single hollowed log, steered by a poler who stands at the stern. Guests sit low in the water as the canoe moves silently through the Delta's reed-lined channels. It is the quietest and closest way to experience the Delta's aquatic wildlife — the perspective is entirely different from a game drive, and the sound of water and birds replaces the engine entirely.

How much walking is involved?

Game drives are seated and unhurried. Walking safaris at both Xaranna and Sandibe are optional and led by armed guides; they involve moderate walking at a slow pace and can be adjusted for fitness level. At Victoria Falls, the viewing trail along the gorge involves some uneven ground but no significant elevation. The whole itinerary is accessible to most fitness levels.

What is included at the lodges?

Both &Beyond camps include all meals, soft drinks, house wines, local spirits, game drives, walking safaris, water activities (seasonal), laundry, park fees, airstrip transfers, and emergency medical evacuation insurance. The Royal Livingstone includes accommodation, daily breakfast, and complimentary access to Victoria Falls. Activities at the Royal Livingstone — sunset cruises, helicopter flights, steam train dinner — are bookable separately.

What should I pack?

Neutral tones — khaki, olive, tan — are standard for both camps. Both lodges have laundry included, so a week's worth of clothing is sufficient for a nine-night trip. For Victoria Falls and the Royal Livingstone, smart casual covers all restaurants; a light waterproof jacket is essential for walking to the falls, where the spray soaks anything within 50 metres of the lip.